Submitted by Brent Wray, BCHBC West Kootenay chapter
Last summer I was incredibly fortunate to join two European long-riding strangers on their vacation for an ultra-light attempt to ride an equestrian version of the Great Divide Trail (GDT) from Grande Cache, AB to the Canada – U.S. border in Waterton National Park.
On Aug 22, Peter, Tina, and I met for the first time at the Waterton Park gates, consolidated gear and horses into my truck and trailer, then drove to Grande Cache the next day. One more day of preparations and we hit the trail Aug 25. 
Leg 1 of our journey was Grande Cache to Jasper. The trail was great and travelling easy for the first couple days, but our no-trail shortcut to connect to the GDT from Ptarmigan Lake was a painfully slow bushwhack through thick bush, deadfall, bog, rough terrain and intermittent rain. After the better part of two days, we finally hit the GDT. Nothing makes you appreciate a trail like two days without one. Gratitude!
We were very grateful for the trail clearing efforts of volunteers from the Great Divide Trail Association and Back Country Horsemen of BC along the Jackpine River.
Jackpine River, Willmore Wilderness Park
After a steep grind up out of the Jackpine river valley, we were rewarded with epic views above Blueberry Lake, over Jackpine Pass, past Mount Bess and Chown Glacier. Weather steadily improved as we worked our way down the Smoky River, crossed spectacular Moose Pass and followed Moose River out to where our shuttle driver was waiting with the Adventure Rig. Longer that planned, tougher than anticipated, but we’d made it. Leg 1 was complete!
With all North-South routes through Jasper National Park closed to horses, our planned Leg 2 route was to start at the Cardinal Divide, onto South Boundary Trail, then through the Blackstone/Wapiabi PLUZ to Saskatchewan Crossing. Tina’s horse, Ahi, had a sore front leg, so she stayed behind while he recovered, so it was just Peter and I for this leg.
All was going according to plan, until it came time to cross the Brazeau River into the Blackstone/Wapiabi. It was running way too high, fast, and deep for us to cross, so we decided to stick to the South Boundary Trail, crossed the Brazeau further upstream, and over rugged Nigel Pass to the trailhead on Hwy 93. Thanks to our Garmin InReach we were able to communicate the change in plan and meeting place to Tina and Peter G, our driver.
Leg 3 was from Saskatchewan Crossing to Banff National Park. Ahi’s leg was still sore, so we got a loaner horse from Astoria Outfitting and Tina rejoined us. He decided he didn’t like us too much and returned to the trailhead the first night, resulting in an extra 28km of horse chasing, but we caught him, got back on track: enjoyed great trail, lost the trail, endured a nasty bushwhack, found the trail again and made our way into Banff to great trail and amazing scenery, eventually pulling out at Lake Louise.
Ahi was recovered, so our driver took our loaner horse back and after a rest day we embarked on Leg 4 of our journey, Banff to Coleman. The horses must’ve really enjoyed the time off, because after grazing peacefully, lulling us into a false sense of security, they headed back to the trailhead. It was many km later and the wee hours of the cold, rainy morning before we caught them and got back to camp.
Allenby Pass, Banff National Park
Up, over Allenby Pass, we left Banff at Palliser Pass, crossed three rockslides along Joffre Creek,
endured a brutal climb over Sylvan Pass then got our butts kicked as we worked our way through an old burn on the Middle Fork of the White River. At Connor Lakes, we decided we’d call it quits the next day in the Elk Valley. Tired horses, another mountain pass to cross and bad weather in the forecast, it was the right call to make.
So, after four weeks on the trail, covering 750km, we loaded up and went back to Alpine Stables in Waterton. All in all, an epic adventure, tremendous new friendships, a world of new opportunities and a whole new level of appreciation for a good trail horse.
Brent Wray on his Morgan, Charlie. Peter van der Gugten on his mustang, Rodeo. Tina Boche on her Argentine Criollo, Ahi
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